Viridiana

A creative, market-driven fine-dining restaurant near Retiro named after the Buñuel film — a seasonally shifting menu with a genuinely deep wine cellar, run with the personal touch of a chef-owner who still greets tables himself.

The menu changes with the market and the season, so ask what's currently best rather than fixating on a dish from an old review. The wine list is unusually deep for a restaurant this size — worth asking for a pairing recommendation rather than picking blind. Reserve ahead for dinner; the room is intimate and fills with a loyal following.