Lhardy

An 1839 restaurant and delicatessen where Spanish royalty and politicians have quietly conducted business over cocido madrileño for generations. The ground-floor deli counter still serves free hot broth (caldo) from a silver samovar to anyone who walks in.

The upstairs dining rooms — velvet, mirrors, and 19th-century woodwork — require a reservation and a genuine occasion; the ground-floor deli counter is walk-in and far more casual, serving croquetas and pastries to eat standing. The free caldo from the silver urn by the entrance is a Madrid tradition in its own right, especially on a cold winter afternoon. Cocido madrileño, the three-course chickpea-and-meat stew, is the dish to order upstairs.